![]() I know that this isn't the most detailed instructables, or the most "well-done", but I tried my hardest on this one, and all I want to do is spread the knowledge of what I have learned in the simplest way. It all depends on whom you are making the ring for. Other people like the pitted surface, saying that is gives an antique or fatigued look. If you don't have access to one, talk to a jeweler, I'm sure one would be happy to help you for a fee. Polish to a mirror shine with a buffing wheel and some polishing paste (if you have access to one) ( this removes most of the pittings and any imperfections) Grind off the rest, or use a coarse file to remove the remains of the sprue.Įither buff the casting with a wire brush wheel or with fine sandpaper. Remove the sprue with a pair of heavy duty snips or pliers. My dad has been to the ophthalmologist more times than I can count, because he didn't learn as easily Metal in the eye hurts like heck,and is not good for you or your eyesight. Wear eye and hand protection, along with a mask when sanding or buffing metal. Wash your hands after messing with the mold, wouldn't want that powder in your body. Avoid being heavy handed, wouldn't want to mar the surface or scratch it, just remove any leftover powder. Place the mold in a bucket of water, wait until cool, then scrub with medium to fine brushes. When it comes out it's probably gonna look ugly and pitted. You the metal out, and it looks amazing, all shining and gleaming. ![]() A steaming hiss telling you that you did the right thing. You slowly place it into a bucket of water with a pair of tongs. You eagerly waited as the metal inside the mold cooled. They can still retain heat hours after casting, so be cautious Never handle the molds directly when casting. Don't try to get all the holes at once, rather heat the metal between casting, and take them one at a time. Pour the metal as directly into the holes as possible. You can also use the torch here, to melt small amounts of metal quickly. Heat the metal you plan to use for 30 minutes at it's melting temperature before you cast, just so that it's actually a liquid and not superheated slop. The scrap yard also has raw ingots.Īnyway, I have a Lee lead melter, which has been modified for my use, and a small porcelain crucible to hold the metal. I used zinc obtained from pennies.don't worry, the pennies I used were so disfigured, the bank wouldn't take them. Please vent the area if you decide to use lead. The metal can be anything that you are able to melt. I wore goggles, apron, and a pair of kiln gloves when handling the metal, and I still got burned. I have burned myself countless times, so learn from my mistakes. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE WEAR PROPER PROTECTION WHEN HANDLING HOT THINGS. Alternatively, a propane torch will work, as I have used it before, but make sure not to concentrate the flame, else the mold will break due to heat stress. However, I can't account for everything, so use judgement when doing it this way. Don't worry, this should not harm anything. You will smell wax doing it this way, so I suggest lighting up some candles. If you suspect that the wax isn't quite all gone, then keep it in longer. Set the kiln to 400^F for 30 minutes, then done. Remember, the side with the holes faces down. ![]() Place all the molds on a aluminum foil covered pan, with a slight angle, so the wax can pour out. Being a DIY guy, I had to try out different methods, and using a oven worked fine. Simply place the mold in one, set to a slow cone 03 (burns organics), and fire away. If you have access to a programmable kiln, like the ones I have at my school, this step is easy. If done for any less, you are liable to get cracks. After the powder has been cast, leave it to dry in a warm (or hot) place for at least 8 hours. The powder will dissolve in water, but your carvings won't. If you don't have a fancy sprue base and cylinder setup, like these ones, no problem. ![]() A shop-vac and a modified container will suit our purposes. Most recipes ask you to vacuum the mixture before and after you pour it, to eliminate any bubbles. Each brand varies in the recipe, so follow yours closely. This is the kind of Investment Powder that I use. Once all the sprues are attached to the base, fit the cylinder over the cap, and fill it with the investment powder. People have cast with thinner walls, but they are better than me at this. Always leave at least 1/4 inch between sprues and I recommend 1/2 inch distance from wall. If you don't, the metal won't flow there. If the object has multiple lo points, you must attach a sprue to each. When you attach the sprue to the base, you want the sprue to be at the lowest point of the object. You must attach a wax stem, preferably 1/8 inch in diameter or wider, with a funnel shape bottom, onto the lowest or highest part of your creation. When you have carved all the rings you want, now you need to cast the negative mold.
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